The suspension stiffens a bit when you push on the pedals, but most riders soon love this and use it to great effect. Add some crackling kit for the cash and you’ve got a very capable and. A slight spring-loading effect occurs and then releases every time you pump the pedals on bumpy terrain. GT’s i-Drive floating suspension is one of the longest serving systems still in use. On the contrary, after the initial ‘getting used to it’ period, you’ll be using the effects of the chain growth, slight shock extension and shifting crankset to kick your way out of slow-down corners as soon as the roughest ground is out of the way. The surprise is that you rarely notice the downhill heft on flat trails, partly because the rear suspension doesn’t suck pedal power away. At 40lb (that’s 7lb more than the Marin, 6lb more than the Specialized and 4lb more than the Mythic), it’s a burden on climbs, although the gearing means nothing is out of the question if you work at it. It eats terrain like a downhill bike, and carries the associated heft. This bike is certainly at the downhill end of the all-mountain scale. Still, it’s a decent downhill-worthy fork at this price.Īs soon as you climb aboard the Ruckus you know it’s going to offer you a totally different ride experience to bikes like the Marin Rock Springs or Mythic Wraith. The rebound damping is good but there’s no leg-top compression adjustment so standing climbs are wallowy affairs. There’s loads of mud room and standover height and the rear dropouts and Manitou Stance Blunt fork are set up for through-axles. The frame is heavily reinforced in all the spots that matter and we love the way the linkage bearings are actually bottom bracket bearings that you can service with a bottom bracket tool. Beware though – the distance you can drop the saddle by is restricted by the shock position. With the saddle high you feel like you’re on a cross-country bike and with the saddle low you get the more compact feel of a downhill bike. But, for riders who feel at ease with the sizing, it works. Some riders think it’s ugly and others find the radically sloping seat mast difficult to deal with because the reach changes so much as you change the saddle height. Fill the race with grease and imagine you are a brain surgeon while repositioning the ball bearings.The frame looks complex but it’s actually very much a case of form follows function. Then refit the rubber seal on the LHS into the recess, it will clip in. It also looks cool.Ĭlean off the ball bearings one last time and dry. As there are rubber seals I used a rubber friendly grease in the form of automotive red rubber grease from castrol that is silicone based. Now that you have cleaned everything time to reassemble. Mind that rubber/ brass seal and clean.Ĩ. Catch all the ball bearing and clean as above. Only tap the metal as the black ring is another metal seal. The LHS race needs to be taped out, I used a flat round punch but learned from my mistakes and dot this one over a towel. Add some crackling kit for the cash and you’ve got a. GT’s i-Drive floating suspension is one of the longest serving systems still in use. I used a mix of auto brake cleaner, white spirits and gt85 on rubber bits. 1 of 2 Enlarge photo GT i-Drive 5 2.0 Jonathan Gawler. Clean everything with appropriate cleaner/ degreaser. I soaked them in white spirits and dried them off with paper towel.ħ. So my advice is to remove the IDrive over a towel and have a jar or container ready to store them. Relise you now have small ball bearings all over your grass and cry while picking them up for 30 mins. The i-Drive 5 is GT’s best frameset yet, with some interesting reversals of tubing norm to cope with the unique layout of suspension and transmission. Try not to distort it too much but it does fit back into a nice recess to help even if it has gotten a bit mis shapedĦ. Clean this with rubber friendly stuff like GT85. Mind the black ring seal you will need this again later. a wooden block and a Lump hammer freed it after cursing and belting it about 20 times. no luck, so I googled and googled as I though I may have missed something but I didn't. that did not work so I sprayed it with GT85 and left it overnight. Mine did not budge and I went at it with a rubber hammer. The GT manual said remove the I drive from the Right Hand Side RHS. YOU ONLY NEED TO REMOVE THE BOLT FROM THE IDRIVE SIDE AS LONG AS THE SHOCK IS REMOVED YOU WILL HAVE CLEARANCE ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE IDRIVE SYSTEM IF YOU PUT IT IN FULL COMPRESSED POSITION. ***DO NOT REMOVE DOG BONE BOLT FROM THE FRAME SIDE, 20 PLUS YEARS OF CORROSION BUILD UP MOST OF THESE ARE SIEZED. Remove waves disc counter clockwise and remove dog bone bolt.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |